Rex
07-16-2008, 06:18 PM
Having recently upgraded my FSAE car's driveline, I'm looking to sell my old stuff. Here's what's for sale:
1) Diff - T1 uni special, older model (circa 2000), including custom oil/grease guard for sealing purposes (seems to seal fine from my use of it) and flanges for sprocket and brake mounting (sprocket and rotor not included, but they're pretty standard bolt patterns for a CBR600 and the wilwood AL rotors)
2) Pillow blocks (2) - custom aluminum, 2 bearings each (1 to support diff, 1 to support inboard stub shafts). Slotted for chain tensioning adjustments.
3) Inboard stub shafts (2) - OEM Honda ATV parts (Foreman 450 I think), with Paradigm motors T1 splines welded on, splines were heat treated.
4) Driveshafts (2) - custom, unequal length, splined to match Honda ATV pattern and heat treated.
5) Outboard CV and hub setup (1) - OEM Honda ATV stuff (again, I think Foreman 450). Only 1 set because the other set failed and is one of the reasons I upgraded my driveline. See pics for failure - basically the hub face separated from the bearing seat, taking part of the CV and castle nut with it.
6) Rear uprights (2) - CNC aluminum uprights, 2-bearing setup, not damaged when the hub failed.
So to be perfectly clear, the OEM hubs DID fail in a driving situation. All of these parts have far more drive time on them than most FSAE cars ever see. Could the same hubs work on a lighter car, or would they be OK for <100 hours on the car? Could they be improved somehow, or could you machine something similar but better (i.e. not cast stainless)? I don't know. That's for someone else to figure out.
Assuming you could figure out a fix for the hubs and replace the one CV, about all you'd need is sprocket, brake rotor, caliper, chain, and some fasteners and you'd pretty much have the driveline of a car together. Maybe someone else can use it for an FSAE resto project like I did? I like to see the parts get used rather than collect dust in my garage as the latest addition to my collection of spare parts.
I really don't want to sell it piecemeal - make me an offer on the entire setup. Email me for more pics, questions, if you want to buy it, etc at mattrtravis (at) gmail.com
I guess I might consider shipping overseas to somewhere that isn't an origin of huge amounts of eCommerce fraud.
https://webspace.utexas.edu/ca61483/www/Hubs1.JPG?
https://webspace.utexas.edu/ca61483/www/Hubs2.JPG?
https://webspace.utexas.edu/ca61483/www/Hubs3.JPG?
https://webspace.utexas.edu/ca61483/www/Hubs4.JPG?
https://webspace.utexas.edu/ca61483/www/Hubs5.JPG?
https://webspace.utexas.edu/ca61483/www/Hubs6.JPG?
1) Diff - T1 uni special, older model (circa 2000), including custom oil/grease guard for sealing purposes (seems to seal fine from my use of it) and flanges for sprocket and brake mounting (sprocket and rotor not included, but they're pretty standard bolt patterns for a CBR600 and the wilwood AL rotors)
2) Pillow blocks (2) - custom aluminum, 2 bearings each (1 to support diff, 1 to support inboard stub shafts). Slotted for chain tensioning adjustments.
3) Inboard stub shafts (2) - OEM Honda ATV parts (Foreman 450 I think), with Paradigm motors T1 splines welded on, splines were heat treated.
4) Driveshafts (2) - custom, unequal length, splined to match Honda ATV pattern and heat treated.
5) Outboard CV and hub setup (1) - OEM Honda ATV stuff (again, I think Foreman 450). Only 1 set because the other set failed and is one of the reasons I upgraded my driveline. See pics for failure - basically the hub face separated from the bearing seat, taking part of the CV and castle nut with it.
6) Rear uprights (2) - CNC aluminum uprights, 2-bearing setup, not damaged when the hub failed.
So to be perfectly clear, the OEM hubs DID fail in a driving situation. All of these parts have far more drive time on them than most FSAE cars ever see. Could the same hubs work on a lighter car, or would they be OK for <100 hours on the car? Could they be improved somehow, or could you machine something similar but better (i.e. not cast stainless)? I don't know. That's for someone else to figure out.
Assuming you could figure out a fix for the hubs and replace the one CV, about all you'd need is sprocket, brake rotor, caliper, chain, and some fasteners and you'd pretty much have the driveline of a car together. Maybe someone else can use it for an FSAE resto project like I did? I like to see the parts get used rather than collect dust in my garage as the latest addition to my collection of spare parts.
I really don't want to sell it piecemeal - make me an offer on the entire setup. Email me for more pics, questions, if you want to buy it, etc at mattrtravis (at) gmail.com
I guess I might consider shipping overseas to somewhere that isn't an origin of huge amounts of eCommerce fraud.
https://webspace.utexas.edu/ca61483/www/Hubs1.JPG?
https://webspace.utexas.edu/ca61483/www/Hubs2.JPG?
https://webspace.utexas.edu/ca61483/www/Hubs3.JPG?
https://webspace.utexas.edu/ca61483/www/Hubs4.JPG?
https://webspace.utexas.edu/ca61483/www/Hubs5.JPG?
https://webspace.utexas.edu/ca61483/www/Hubs6.JPG?