restrictor construction

[kozak]

just wondering how everyone makes their restrictors and transitional pieces. i have seen the one piece cnc deals but i aws wondering if there was a better or easier way to make it.

[kozak]

just wondering how everyone makes their restrictors and transitional pieces. i have seen the one piece cnc deals but i aws wondering if there was a better or easier way to make it.

[KU_Racing]

the tapered restrictor is a pretty easy piece to manufacture- anyone with half decent machining skills can cut one on a lathe fairly quickly. Id suggest aluminum for the restrictor, since it will be tougher to get your i.d. perfect with carbon. also, most throttle bodies are made of aluminum, so you can just weld or bond the throttle body onto the restrictor for a simple and reliable joint.

[kozak]

well i was reffering to the tapered transitional pieces and the whole assembly. anyone can cut a whole in a plate.

[T]

We are having an issue about this too, last year ours was made in a two peice construction, which i felt was not optimal. But we are having a hard time coming up with a cost effective way to make it a single piece unit

[KU_Racing]

I was talking about the tapered sections, not just a 20 mil hole in a sheet for the restrictor. the tapers are very easy to cut on a lathe.

[LSU Dave]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by KURacing:
I was talking about the tapered sections, not just a 20 mil hole in a sheet for the restrictor. the tapers are very easy to cut on a lathe. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I agree, I CNCed half of one today... pretty easy with featurcam. But, before I decided to go with a radius instead of a straight taper, I managed to knock a restrictor venturi in under an hour. You just have to do some geometry, set up the taper on the lathe at the right angle (a little smaller the first few passes!), and vwala, you have a reasonably well flowing restrictor.

If you want to get even more creative on a manual lathe, you can set up a patterned piece of sheet and put a dial indicator on it as you move the boring bar in and out at a low feed. Works well if you don't have a CNC.

[Wright D]

We skipped all the hassle of making one

check these guys out. (http://www.flow-dyne.com/flowdyne.htm)

These guys are the experts, so we let them do it.

[Jersey Tom]

The design itself is really simple to get right. We've done carbon layup historically.

[LSU Dave]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Jersey Tom:
The design itself is really simple to get right. We've done carbon layup historically. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

When you guys did your layup, did you make the converging section and the diverging section in separate pieces or make the nozzle in a vertial cross section? I've been curious to try to make one, but don't have the time to screw around with it too much http://fsae.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_wink.gif

[Jersey Tom]

Turn down the converging and diverging halves separately, drill and tap them in the center at the throat, screw em together, layup, unscrew em and take em out.

[KU_Racing]

thats a good technique tom- I hadnt thought of that. We just bought some machinable wax and turned that stuff down to the converging/divergine/radius shape. Then we layed up on that, then we just melted the wax out.