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Eureka
01-25-2010, 04:40 AM
Hey friends,
So far thanks to all those who have helped me out in the informations regarding dynamometers.
My ques. now is which type of dynamometer is best for engine testing which is of 600cc. Like hydraulic (water brake),or friction or power dynos??? Which one should be picked??

Eureka
01-25-2010, 04:40 AM
Hey friends,
So far thanks to all those who have helped me out in the informations regarding dynamometers.
My ques. now is which type of dynamometer is best for engine testing which is of 600cc. Like hydraulic (water brake),or friction or power dynos??? Which one should be picked??

Mikey Antonakakis
01-25-2010, 06:40 AM
How much money do you have?

Eureka
01-26-2010, 01:48 AM
Money is not the problem. I just wanted to know which will suit the best and be productive for our engine...

RollingCamel
01-26-2010, 03:49 AM
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Eureka:
Money is not the problem. I just wanted to know which will suit the best and be productive for our engine... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

How come money is not "the" problem?

Did you look at Land&Sea offerings and Froude?

D Collins Jr
01-26-2010, 06:01 AM
If money's not a problem, get one of these:

http://www.superflow.com/Dynam...hassis/auto_dyn.html (http://www.superflow.com/Dynamometers/Chassis/auto_dyn.html)

Eureka
01-28-2010, 05:03 AM
Which is a better dynamometer out of these for engine testing :-

Q.1&gt; Friction brake or hydrostatic dyno ?

Q.2&gt; Eddy-current or water brake(Hydraulic)?

And the best out of these four...???


Please reply soon !!!

Marshall.Hagen
01-28-2010, 07:31 AM
Eddy Current Dynamometers will have the fastest load changing and best load/rpm control. You can also do accurate friction run-down testing. They are the most expensive though, and require the largest modifications to your facility.

WWU has a Superflow SF-901 engine dynamometer, it was a breeze working with it.

The SF-901 has been replaced by the Racer-Pack engine dynamometer (and the SF-902) in the Superflow catalog.

I highly recommend using an engine dynamometer instead of a chassis dynamometer for your engine development. The efficiency of performing tests and part changing is vastly superior, and allows engine development to occur concurrently with the chassis.

http://www.superflow.com/Dynam...s/Engine/engine.html (http://www.superflow.com/Dynamometers/Engine/engine.html)

BuckeyeEngines
01-28-2010, 08:35 AM
Im selling a water break thats all ready to go with load cell and a F4i cart/driveshaft. Let me know if you are interested and I'll provide the details. We have moved up in the world to a dyne systems DC dyno!

wittenauer.7@gmail.com

Adambomb
01-28-2010, 11:07 AM
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Eureka:
Which is a better dynamometer out of these for engine testing :-

Q.1&gt; Friction brake or hydrostatic dyno ?

Q.2&gt; Eddy-current or water brake(Hydraulic)?

And the best out of these four...???


Please reply soon !!! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

The "best" of these has the best combination of these attributes:

1. Apply a controllable (ideally automatically controllable) and sufficient load to your engine.

2. Fits in your shop space (I've never met a team with "too much" shop space...and there's no way we'd be able to fit a chassis dyno in ours).

3. You can afford it, and still afford to build the rest of the car (I've also never met a team with "too much" money...and dynos can get pretty expensive).

Beyond that, nobody here can tell you what fits that combination of attributes "best" for you, no matter how quickly you ask us to reply. There are tons and tons of resources describing all of those types of dynos, no one here will give you a "magic answer."

Although, if you have to ask these questions, I don't think it would be a bad idea to buy a used setup from another team (assuming they're upgrading and not just ditching a lost cause), that would most likely be the cheapest and easiest route.

Eureka
01-29-2010, 07:14 AM
Thanks to Iowa S.U.

Perhaps the answer to my question will be better understandable if I say it more specefic that we are sending our engine for testing to some company, so if "we" have the choice to select out of the above then which should we select???

Engine - 600cc meant for about 5000-6000 RPM

BuckeyeEngines
01-29-2010, 07:17 AM
what type of 600 are you running? only 6000 rpm

TorqueWrench
01-29-2010, 09:18 AM
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by BuckeyeEngines:
what type of 600 are you running? only 6000 rpm </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I smell pushrods. Haha. Bring on another industrial engine.

Adambomb
01-29-2010, 04:13 PM
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Eureka:
Thanks to Iowa S.U.

Perhaps the answer to my question will be better understandable if I say it more specefic that we are sending our engine for testing to some company, so if "we" have the choice to select out of the above then which should we select???

Engine - 600cc meant for about 5000-6000 RPM </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Ahh, I see. For tuning or just to get a validated number? My primary concern would be more with reputation of whoever's running the machine than the machine itself, especially for tuning.

VFR750R
01-30-2010, 07:41 AM
IF money is no issue get an AVL ac electric dyno. There is nothing out there that works as good as a complete package...probably nothing more expensive either.

Eureka
02-08-2010, 09:22 PM
Thanks for those valuable suggestions,

Is the friction dynamometer outdated(technically)??? Or can it damage the engine...??
And if we use the hydrostatic dyno, will it lead to the corrosion of our enigne??

Adambomb
02-09-2010, 08:41 PM
Woah...thinking about this way too hard. One type of dyno is, off the top of my head, no more harmful to an engine than any other dyno.

The only job a dyno performs is to apply a load to the engine for testing and tuning purposes. You hook the output shaft up to something that absorbs energy. A hydrostatic dyno will only expose your engine to water if it explodes or develops a really bad leak. Besides, if your engine can't handle getting a splash of water on it, what will it do in the rain?

The dyno OPERATOR, however, can do a lot of damage to an engine. The operator is also the #1 factor in how useful the results are, and generally, really good dyno operators will either use good equipment, or work magic with less good equipment.