Wheel Hubs

[Dman]

What up people. I am in desperate need of front wheel hubs for our formula car. For some reason, I can't find any. They need to be 4x100 mm (bearings included would be nice) with an ID of .5 in (or around there. Any ideas where I can find them? The main problem I run into is that the ones I find are either rear wheel hubs (splined for the driveshaft) or hubs with a 4x4" pattern, which doesn't work with my wheels. So any help would be great.

[Dman]

What up people. I am in desperate need of front wheel hubs for our formula car. For some reason, I can't find any. They need to be 4x100 mm (bearings included would be nice) with an ID of .5 in (or around there. Any ideas where I can find them? The main problem I run into is that the ones I find are either rear wheel hubs (splined for the driveshaft) or hubs with a 4x4" pattern, which doesn't work with my wheels. So any help would be great.

[Kyle Walther]

i'm guessing you use a dead spindle design. if so just make some. a lathe, a mill, some material, and a couple of hours should do it.

if you use a live spindle design, then use the rear hubs. bore out the splines and make a retention washer. and bolt thru the center of the hub.

[kwancho]

Retention washer? Explain.

[kladendo]

DSR use the front 4X100mm BCD, 1.5mm thread hubs off a vw rabbit. The hub does have the splines for the half shafts but that is no problem. A 3/4-16 grade 5 bolt is used to bolt the hub in the upright. It is necessary to use the large thick washers on the 3/4"bolt that come with the stock equipment. I am not up on the judging requriment for FSAE but from an applications point the above design works well.

[Dman]

kladendo, I would think the splines would be a problem, since the front hub needs to be able to rotate freely around the spindle. The splines would stop such rotation, right?

[Wesley]

Ever taken apart a front disc brake setup on a RWD production car, kladendo? Its a washer with a tab on the ID that locks into a slot on the spindle. Bolt puts pressure on the washer, which puts pressure on the bearings to get correct preload, but the slot keeps the washer from spinning. Usually used with a castle nut and cotter pin for positive retention.

At least I'm thinking that may be what Kyle's talking about. Maybe.

But hubs wouldn't be terribly difficult to make, even on manual equipment.

[Kyle Walther]

i'm pretty sure from your comments dman that you run a dead spindle. this is a picture from our 01 car of a quick and dirty front hub. this is the design that can be manufactured pretty quickly. and with a little planning you can choose sizes that make materials alot cheaper.

http://photos-263.ak.facebook.com/ip002/v71/238/65/9602138/n9602138_33587263_9270.jpg

they chose to do some fancy weight saving pattern, but you don't have to. you could just drill some holes if you are concerned with weight. http://fsae.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_smile.gif

[consig]

hey kyle, how did you make sure that the wheel and brake flanges on that hub were perpendicular to the center tube when you welded it? Did you make a jig for them?

[Kyle Walther]

weld it as flat as you can but be prepared to re-chuck it in the lathe and face the critical surfaces.

[Dman]

So machining it would probably be the best way, huh? I shall run it by my team. Thanks for the help

[kladendo]

Dman, splines are internal so there is no problem with any kind of binding. the use I described is for a front setup.. No need to have the splines for use in the front.. it is just an easy way for racer's without lathes and machines tools in there garage to get a set up to work..
Wesley, Ever take a FWD wheel assy apart to get the hubs for use? The washer is extra thick and harden for thrust loads. No tabs or worry's about rotation during assembly It is easier to use this washer that to make or buy. Although McMasterCar does sell a grade 8 harden washer that is plenty thick that will work just fine.
hope this helps kl