Ignition firing order on honda Cbr600rr !

[Ignition-Kid]

Hello guys,

I will get straight to my question, I have a PE Stand alone Ecu..The stock Firing order is 1-2-4-3 for the cbr600rr, i configured the ECU to run wasted spark ignition, connected the plugs 1 And 3 as bank Number1, 4 and 2 as bank number2 and wired the injectors the same way !

i get lots and lots of intake and exhaust back fire..Any help or any tips will be much appreciated !

Thank you so much in advance guys.

[Ignition-Kid]

Hello guys,

I will get straight to my question, I have a PE Stand alone Ecu..The stock Firing order is 1-2-4-3 for the cbr600rr, i configured the ECU to run wasted spark ignition, connected the plugs 1 And 3 as bank Number1, 4 and 2 as bank number2 and wired the injectors the same way !

i get lots and lots of intake and exhaust back fire..Any help or any tips will be much appreciated !

Thank you so much in advance guys.

[BradyJ]

A single coil should fire cylinders that are 360° apart in the firing order (complimentary cylinders). For the CBR600RR this means that bank #1 should have cylinders 1 and 4, bank#2 should have cylinders 2 and 3.

Happy tuning!

[Mikey Antonakakis]

I can confirm what BradyJ just said. Fixing that should take care of your issues.

[Ignition-Kid]

Thank you so much guys, but i still can't get the engine to start..i tried everything...Advance..Advance more...increasing pulse width..Air and Coolant compensation...I cut the trigger wheel like the Manual says..Exactly at TDC for Cylinder #1..I don't have a Timing light..i don't even have an oscilloscope to track the signal from the Crank position sensor, What shall i do?...i am so frustrated at this moment..the engine is brand new...Plugs are Clean...i think i might have a timing offset but i cant measure it ! i started with 10 then 15 the 20..25..30 degrees advance..increased the pulse width to 8 ms...i am going insane..i don't have a clue what else to do !

[Mikey Antonakakis]

Your cold start pulse width should be somewhere around 2.5ms (maybe less, maybe more, but it's a good place to start... also this is assuming the rr injectors are similar to the f4i injectors, but 2.5 is a great starting place for an f4i with batch injection). If that doesn't work make the pulse width a little shorter, till you get to about 1.8ms, then start at 2.5 again and slowly turn it up. Set your timing to zero then add or subtract 5 degrees at a time (to maybe 15 degrees retarded and 30 degrees advance, it should become apparent which direction it likes to go pretty quickly) and see where it likes to be. Check your plugs often, they foul faster than you might imagine when you're trying to just get the engine to idle. I can't tell how many times only dirty plugs have been at fault when trying to get an engine to run for the first time, even if they were clean ten minutes earlier. If you want to check how dirty your plugs are before you go changing or cleaning them, just take one out, ground it against the block, and turn the engine over. If you don't see a nice strong spark every time, go clean or replace them. It takes about a minute to pull the plug and check it. Also, if it won't run on starter fluid, it's an ignition problem. Just don't blow up your intake.

[Boffin]

Is it still popping out the intake and exhaust?

[Ignition-Kid]

Yes it is..And thanks mikey...i will try and let you know.

[Dsenechal]

Exactly how badly are you backfiring, and will the engine rev up at all? Once you get the engine running, take a heat gun and measure the temperatures of the headers on all four cylinders. I am guessing that cylinders 3 and 4 will show very low temperatures, which would indicate they are not firing correctly. ALmost sounds like you have your 3 and 4 coilpacks swapped. I have seen this first hand, and the the intake eventually exploded due to a large backfire, before the issue was found.

[Ignition-Kid]

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/59cbae01e6.png (http://www.freeimagehosting.net/)


guys..which tooth should i cut ?

sorry for the crappy drawing !

[Ignition-Kid]

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/59cbae01e6.png (http://www.freeimagehosting.net/)

guys..which teeth should i cut ?

sorry for the silly drawing !

[Mikey Antonakakis]

The first tooth after the missing tooth should line up with the sensor when piston 1 is at top dead center. Of course you won't be able to get it perfect, but if you're within a few degrees you should be able to at least get it running.

So judging by your picture, it should be tooth 1, if tooth 2 lines up with the sensor at tdc.

Also, this is a placeholder for a link/image.

[Mikey Antonakakis]

http://www.pe-ltd.com/Download...F4I%20app%20page.pdf (http://www.pe-ltd.com/Downloads/F4%20F4I%20app%20page.pdf)

This explains how to set it up.

[Ignition-Kid]

Thank you so much mikey, I already cut this tooth,

I found that i have a major vacuum leak from my intake system..i will try to get it fix and hopefully the engine will start !!

[Boffin]

If it's still poping and backfiring, check your crank index refernce postion (motec thing, PE should have something similar) with a timing light and make sure the ignition is correct.

[Ignition-Kid]

After fixing the Intake Leakage And cutting the right trigger tooth, The engine started like a charm..Thank you guys http://fsae.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_smile.gif