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steve d.
07-27-2004, 11:45 AM
Okay...I've SEEN them in pictures you guys have posted. it's basically a radiator cap on one leg of a TEE fitting. I'll be darned if I can find one though. Any help??

1.5" or 1.25" on the through pipe it really doesn't matter. as I have to neck down from the subaru block to the radiator. i've got one from a MR2 right now, but I need to put a temp sender inline in the upper radiator hose. there's just not enough room with the MR2 filler.

I'm old skool FSAE...my project is a subaru EJ block into the back of a 1967 porsche.

steve
atlanta area

steve d.
07-27-2004, 11:45 AM
Okay...I've SEEN them in pictures you guys have posted. it's basically a radiator cap on one leg of a TEE fitting. I'll be darned if I can find one though. Any help??

1.5" or 1.25" on the through pipe it really doesn't matter. as I have to neck down from the subaru block to the radiator. i've got one from a MR2 right now, but I need to put a temp sender inline in the upper radiator hose. there's just not enough room with the MR2 filler.

I'm old skool FSAE...my project is a subaru EJ block into the back of a 1967 porsche.

steve
atlanta area

James Waltman
07-27-2004, 12:28 PM
I think that these are what you are after.
http://parts.factoryfive.com/roadster/engine/fillerneck.jpg
You can get them here (http://parts.factoryfive.com/roadster/engine/engine.html)

or check out Summit (http://www.summitracing.com/)
Part # SME-2202 (http://www.summitracing.com/catalogs/bigbook/2004/julyaug/180f.html)

Hope this helps.

steve d.
07-28-2004, 03:10 PM
I've been through the summit catalog. I missed them over and over and over...good grief..

THANKS SO MUCH!!!!

That's exactly what I'm after.

sjd

Akos
07-28-2004, 09:09 PM
Word of caution about those types of radiator necks.

They do a bad job of removing bubbles ( blow-by, steam or just air in the system) from your coolant. I have tried these in my FSAE days and had to fix a system at my work that had it. They simply do not work.

Best spot for rad caps is either the top of a swirl pot, or the top of the rad header tank (if the header is the highest point in the cooling system).

The problem with these in-line types, is you always have a large flow across it, thus the bubbles of gas will never collect near it. This means that bubbles stay entrained in your coolant, and continue to build up till your water pump looses prime. Constant vacuum bleeding of the cooling system will remove them, but it is a pain in the ass. Good cooling systems should be self bleeding and self priming.

Cheers,

Akos

steve d.
07-29-2004, 09:08 AM
ya know...that's a really good point.

I'm not sure there was room for it in the scheme of things anyway.

I've been pondering a pressurized tank as well (like a lot of audi's, wrx's, and porsche 944's have)

sjd

MikeWaggoner at UW
07-29-2004, 09:55 AM
"I've been pondering a pressurized tank as well (like a lot of audi's, wrx's, and porsche 944's have)"

Huh? Every radiator I've seen has been pressurized. Do you mean pressurizing your catch can? It'll just add weight, IMHO.

Charlie
07-29-2004, 10:12 AM
He's talking about a swirl tank. Sort of like a pressurized catch can, but serves a much better purpose. http://fsae.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_smile.gif

steve d.
07-30-2004, 05:34 AM
some cars use a reservoir with the filler neck on the reservoir instead of having the filler neck on the radiator.

I'm making this project as "off the shelf" as possible.

the real trouble is that I've got 7" of room and 8" of stuff. (get your minds out of the gutter)

sjd

BryanH
07-30-2004, 06:29 AM
Steve d. people have been jailed for less,
but if you really must do this unspeakable act to your 911 then a swirl pot is needed.
It will fit up beside the shock mount & can be as small as 3" dia X 5" high. water out of engine into side of pot 3" up & water to rad. out bottom of pot. very important to run 5/32" air bleed from water pump inlet pipe to bottom of pot. A very good example to check out is Lotus Esprit. If you don't get cooling system right your Suby will overheat before it gets a chance to det. itself to death!!!
Bryan Hester

BigJake
07-30-2004, 11:25 AM
What is the importance of the 5/32" air bleed from the water pump to the bottom of the pot?

steve d.
07-30-2004, 01:54 PM
I love stirring up opinions...

halfast...yes...I know...it cools quite nicely with the rad in the back. the high horsepower second version in a widebody '72 will have the rad in front...

it's not an unspeakable act, it's a "bolt-in", I haven't cut anything that I can't switch back....and besides it's a 912 (just like a 911, but 4 cylinders...) it even sounds the same, and it's not your car. and on top of that, I've never removed a good running engine to do this (I never would either)...I usually buy shells...

I own scoobys...I've had them overheat (just barely)...it's no biggie, I know how to get around it...I don't think the swirlpot is needed...we'll see. I have lots of hot testing to go....

sjd

BryanH
07-31-2004, 07:04 AM
Big jake, If the car had a front mount rad the air bleed is needed to bleed off gas bubbles which can collect at the water pump inlet and eventually air lock the pump.
assuming Steve d. has fitted an aspro motor, he has fitted the rad where the intercooler would go 930 style so nothing fancy is required.
still think its sacriledge!
Bryan Hester

steve d.
08-02-2004, 04:55 AM
I kinda wondered if it was sacriledge until I felt it pull...

No 912 pulls like this, and this is the weakest (1.8L) scooby motor.

you should see what happens when we talk about engine swaps on the porsche boards (pelican parts, and rennlist)

sjd