static camber

[Omer]

hi all
I was wondering what will be the easiest way to create static negative camber?
how will it affect the KPI inclination?
we are on our first year and sometimes it feels like walking in a dark room.
any help will be most appreciated.

Omer Eden
Ben Gurion UNI Israel
omer_eden@yahoo.com

[tal]

Omer,

I suggest doing a search of 'camber' using the 'find' tool on this forum.

I also suggest using the following link to search various schools and looking at pictures of how teams are designing thier suspension/adjustment geometry.

http://www.rfr.rutgers.edu/links2003_4.php

You will want to design your static camber to a value that will suit your tires/car and driving conditions. However you will want to make this value adjustable in case you get it wrong or for fine tuning your suspension. A few ways to do this are using a threaded device on your a-arm to adjust this value(changes KPI), use shims on the chassis side of the a-arm(changes KPI), or by using shims between your outboard a-arm and your upright(changes scrub).

Cool to see Israel represented in this competition.

[Omer]

Hi Tal
thanks for all of your advices it's been very helpful.
I think i will go with the threaded rod ends to change my camber.
thanks again

[Cement Legs]

The only problem with using rod ends to adjust your camber is that you using rod ends.... Do a search for spherical bearings, and if you read through most of the posts I think you will soon agree with those people that are really pushing spherical bearings. The two locations that you could adjust your camber with rod ends are the two locations most necessary to have sphericals to avoid the stress factor from the threaded rod, keeping in mind that changing your camber could mean extending this threaded section and increasing the moment acting on that part. I would not use rod ends for the outboard a-arm connections with any thread showing at all if you still chose to use rod ends. Shims are simple and a parallel thread talks about a really nice way to do them with machined pieces and anodized for color coding.