Rod bolts question, rod bearing clearance question

[jpusb]

I was just wondering how many of you guys use a strech gauge when bolting on rods, or do you just use a torquemeter with lubeb bolt threads?
The reason for the question is to know if you have seen any signifficant difference in torque values when using the strech gauge? Using same lube and bolt for both methods.

I have another question too. How many of you guys have really measured bearing clearance difference when using higher torque bolts such as ARP's. I mean, I've read before that you need to rebore/line-hone the big when using higher spec torque bolts, or else you'll deform the big end circle due to the extra clamping force, but I'm not really sure about that and ARP says nothing about it so I was just wondering if any of you guys have really measured any difference when using higher spec torque bolts.

[jpusb]

I was just wondering how many of you guys use a strech gauge when bolting on rods, or do you just use a torquemeter with lubeb bolt threads?
The reason for the question is to know if you have seen any signifficant difference in torque values when using the strech gauge? Using same lube and bolt for both methods.

I have another question too. How many of you guys have really measured bearing clearance difference when using higher torque bolts such as ARP's. I mean, I've read before that you need to rebore/line-hone the big when using higher spec torque bolts, or else you'll deform the big end circle due to the extra clamping force, but I'm not really sure about that and ARP says nothing about it so I was just wondering if any of you guys have really measured any difference when using higher spec torque bolts.

[VFR750R]

I'd do what is recommended in the manual. In the case where the manual says a certain degree twist past a ft-lb reading, Don't use anything but stock bolts with that procedure.

That procedure assumes stock yield strength, and you are yielding the bolts. This is also a case where you must use new bolts everytime.

Using stretch is very good for consistancy as it takes the lubricant and torque error out of the equation, but all we use it for is finding bad rod bolts. We have a torque that all rod bolts get pretorqued to before final assembly and if the stretch is out of range we throwout the bolt.

[Brian Evans]

rods should be sized with the bolts you will used torqued to the specification you will use with the method you will use. If you don't do that, then at least measure the bore for size with the bolts torqued as you will use them. I honestly haven't found a difference I would worry about.

Using a stretch gauge is the correct way to install rod bolts, but using a very good and repeatable torque wrench is what I do. ARP also wants the bolts torqued several times before final, to burnish the threads. You can also record the slack length of the bolts - if they have stretch permanently after use, they have yielded and can be float-tested. If your stock bolts are indeed "torque to yield once and toss" I'd get better bolts, how will you ever measure bearing clearances if you can't torque the bolts and then undo them again? OK for manufacture, not for rebuilding and modifying.