hello old topic new thread

[keesey]

i have a f4i and am in need of the exhaust bolt pattern weather it is a 2d layout or what looking for the dimmensions, i have searched and with no resolve i could not find.

i have spent alot of time veiwing this forum and am very gratefull for what information everyone has donated, i am currently going through a motorcycle service program and machineing. f4i is my base and none of the bike forums have anywhere near the info that is on here. EVERYONE HAS BEEN A HUGE HELP FOR ME!!
THANK YOU

[Dash]

Got some calipers?

If you have the motor, you could measure them without too much trouble I think.

[Racer-X]

If you have the motor measuring it yourself should be fairly simple. I bet it will take you less time to measure it than it would for me to find, then upload our engine scan, which I couldn't do even if I wanted to (sponsor deal).

[keesey]

I appreciate the input, problem is its not in a very good spot to measure, and I am trying to make a 1 piece or 2 piece flange, this is going to be a turbo motor.

How many of you are still running the f4i it seems like all the threads on it are from 2002-2008 that contain any info,

The engine scan? Is that the nice looking 3d model that I cannot find a link to? I have seen pics of it but cannot find the model. If it is in the shared files it might be one that I cannot see for some reason autodesk fusion pro won't open it, opens all the rest with no problem just doesn't like two or three from the ou file.

[Dash]

Here is another way i just thought up.

Step 1. Grab a good ruler ( lots of fine marks on it )

Step 2. Pull out your Iphone and/or camera

Step 3. Take a picture of the motor while holding the ruler up next the the exhaust ports.

That should get you pretty damn close.

[Zac]

If you're having trouble measuring the head, what about tracking down the stock bike exhaust and measuring that?

[Racer-X]

Keesey, the engine scan is a laser scanned 3D model that a sponsor made for us. They used some crazy cutting edge technology and it was mind blowing to see how well it turned out.

The problem is we can't share the scan, we are not allowed to. It is on the drive at our school.

The point I was trying to make is that all you have to do is grab a piece of paper, make a part drawing and take a few measurements. It should not take you long and is going to be as accurate as you need to make header flanges.

[keesey]

Well I found a motor at a junkyard around me, they are kind enough to let me come out there and measure it all I want.

Zac, the stock exhaust I don't think would work due to the angle the flanges need to be at, also the fact that they are not stationary.

Racer-x, the scan you speak of is that the one that there is a screen shot of? I understand that u cannot share was just curious.

[keesey]

Also when I finish don't know if anyone is interested but could load a print of the flange. Let me know

[Owen Thomas]

You can always do it the fun way too!

Step 1: Acquire flat piece of steel
Step 2: Place steel over exhaust bolts
Step 3: Hit that bitch with a hammer (carefully, of course)
Step 4: Measure the dents

Added bonus: if you drill holes in it where the dents are, you have a template for punching your flanges!

Seriously though, to answer your question it is in fact a 2D pattern, and everyone has good suggestions (just measure it). If you mean the whole thing with the offset to the sealing surface on the head, it is obviously not 2D, and is recessed by a number which is also measurable with calipers. I wouldn't rely on CAD model measurements if you can get access to the real deal, though. Easiest thing to do is (like Zac said) get the stock headers and steal the flange design and offset.

[Owen Thomas]

Originally posted by keesey:
Zac, the stock exhaust I don't think would work due to the angle the flanges need to be at, also the fact that they are not stationary.


Wait, what?

I think you may have left some information out of your initial post...

[Warpspeed]

One really redneck way of duplicating really weird difficult to measure bolt patterns, would be to first cut out a suitable cover plate from thin sheetmetal, with oversized bolt holes.

Place this over the part to be copied, then bolt some very snug fitting large O.D. washers over the cover plate.
Weld, solder, or epoxy the washers in position to the cover plate, and you should then have a quite usable drilling jig to locate the holes onto another part.

[keesey]

Owen Thomas, you can display depth for the sealing surface and offset for the bosses on a 2d layout, it's called a side profile, and a face profile will cover all aspects o making a flange that seals to the head and allows you to weld your pipe to it.

I for one am not a fan of cad modeling I grew up on printed layout and that is what I work with best,

So got my measurements laying it out tonight and cutting tomorrow night will post pics just got to get some tubing

[Nath_01]

I learnt a nifty trick a while ago for combating similar problems....
You can place a piece of paper (preferably grid paper) or card over the complex geometry and lightly knock the edges of the shape with a hammer indenting the card.

Once you have the outline of the shape and any bolt hole locations run a pen or texta over the shape to make it more obvious.
Scan the paper in your scanner at home and save it as a jpeg. Open Solidworks, create a sketch on a plane and go to;
Tools> Sketch Tools> Sketch Picture...Navigate to your scanned image and input the dimensions of the piece of paper as the x and y dimensions with the 'aspect ratio' lock set to on.
You now have a sketch to trace over using normal sketch tools in Solidworks, you can define your sketch and then create a DXF so you can get this stuff cut!

Just one tip....If you don't place some sought of highlighter or scribble or whatever around the borders of the page your scanner will crop the page and the scale wont be 1:1 so your dimensions will get thrown out, this is the reason why I suggest doing it on grid paper.

This might be over complicating things for what you want to do, but it's a good thing to learn when complex 2D geometry needs to be modeled.

Happy sketching!

[keesey]

Well the paper and tap won't work on the head as the studs are raised bosses, but it is a good idea I have used that for making gaskets.

Just finished milling all the holes tonight, got to face mill to my desired width and the mill the edges to allow clearance for the cam sensor on the end of the head, then to the tubing, made a few changes when milling so I got to update the file I will load it up in a few days