Does anyone have info on semi-automatic paddle shifting?

[BK]

Have just joined my uni's formula student team and have been asked to research and develop a suitable semi-automatic gear change system preferably using paddle shifters. We are using a Yamaha R6 engine with straight sequential gear shift N>1>2>3>4>5>6.

Can anybody offer any insight or point me in the right direction with this.

Also wondering what are the best ways to test the forces needed to change the gears.

Thanks in advance to anyone who can help on the topic.

[BK]

Have just joined my uni's formula student team and have been asked to research and develop a suitable semi-automatic gear change system preferably using paddle shifters. We are using a Yamaha R6 engine with straight sequential gear shift N>1>2>3>4>5>6.

Can anybody offer any insight or point me in the right direction with this.

Also wondering what are the best ways to test the forces needed to change the gears.

Thanks in advance to anyone who can help on the topic.

[terra_dactile]

hi Bk
our 2005 car has pneumatic shifting by means of a paddle, we tested different psi setting on the motor itself to see if it shifts properly, what is nice about a pneumatic system is once you get the car rolling you can adjust the pressure if you see that the shift is not ideal,
we shift with about 100-120 psi setting and it is very smooth, for the semi automatic part i believe in 2004 Auburn university had a good setup, maybe they have information on their awesome website.

Jude berthault
ETS Formula SAE
2003-present

[Agent4573]

The loads you'll see in shifting depend entirely on if you unload the engine or not. If you run a properly opperating and timed ignition kill you can see shift forces in the 10-15 pound range(assuming the stock shift arm). If you try to shift a fully loaded engine without ignition kill or lifting, well we've snapped the shift arm before and missed the shift.

[raska]

You can get a lot more information by searching, but are you sure the transmission doesn't go 1>N>2>3>4>5>6?

Pneumatics seems to be the best way to go as far as electrical drain on the car, and it is often a problem for teams. You can use paintball bottles, and then all the distribution lines can be self locking nylon or poly-urethane lines, which you can find rated all the way up past the 200psi range. Use an adjustable pressure regulator and you can change the forces needed. We currently run 150psi, and I believe a 1/2" bore cylinder, so a little higher forces than some, but never any problems. Ignition cut on the upshifts is a good idea like mentioned.