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View Full Version : 2003 CBR600 F4i -- wants to turn over, but no pump action !



EgyptianMagician
09-28-2004, 08:58 AM
Hey folks, quick q.

Everything appears to be jumpered correctly, however, the pump is not priming the fuel system.

Is it possible to have missed something and have the engine starter work but NOT have the fuel pump engage ? Thanks guys, any help would be greatly appreciated.

fyi The pump has been tested, it's good to go.

B Lewis @ PE Engine Management
09-28-2004, 09:27 AM
I assume that you are trying to get all of the stock components working. Is this correct? If so try to turn the pump on with a switch and the battery voltage (bypass the stock harness). This is a quick way to determine if the engine will fire up.

Good Luck!!

schumafer
09-28-2004, 11:04 AM
check the connection for the pump relay, injectors.. or try the check engine light..

Fernando Gómez
F-SAE USB
Universidad Simón BolÃ*var

EgyptianMagician
09-29-2004, 08:14 PM
thanks guys, will try it out soon and post back ! (gonna try the pump with a separate power source first to see if the engine will turn over!)

Cement Legs
10-04-2004, 02:11 PM
Hey ummm why dont you try the red wire....

Andy Pate
10-05-2004, 02:59 AM
If the other stuff the guys have suggested doesnt work try running the pump in reverse, we had a load of shit(not literally!) stuck in ours and this cleared it out

EgyptianMagician
10-06-2004, 04:44 AM
I haven't had a chance to test it out, still waiting to get our "fuel tank" certified, then we'll hopefully get some action.

The pump DOES work, so what we will do is hook the pump up on it's own and have it constantly running. Initially I thought you couldn't do this, however someone brought it to my attention that the only reason the pump stops running is to conserve power.

(ignore cement legs ... he's 'ma boss' trollin' in the forums seein' what his team is up to behind his back)

EgyptianMagician
11-29-2004, 07:38 AM
2:22am am Atlantic Standard Time -- UNB FSAE can officially declare it is in posession of engine that runs quite beautifully.

A bit of a hoaky way to start it, but, we can fine tune it later.

The main problem we were having is that if you short the bank sensor to +12V the pump primes and runs, however you get no spark. If you short it to GND, you get spark, but no pump ... a bit of magic from a determined team and one bright lad came up with a great solution.

Not really sure about what's happening, we'll look into it further, but perhaps it has something to do with the stock ignition system? For now we'll call it the "UNB Anti-Theft system" http://fsae.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_wink.gif

Anyway, nothing quite like the sound of a purring engine at 2 in the morning.

cheers,

rajpr
11-29-2004, 11:45 AM
Did you disable the stock "anti-theft" by placing a resistor on the pink wire?

There's a pink wire on the harness that normally goes to the ignition switch on the bike. You need to put a resistor on that wire and connect it to +12V.

As far as the resistor, I'm don't quite remember what it had to be but I think it was either 100, 1k, or 400 ohms.

I've heard others having to use diodes and what not but we've had it work with just a resistor. There's been threads about it on the forum.

EgyptianMagician
11-29-2004, 01:27 PM
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by rajpr:
Did you disable the stock "anti-theft" by placing a resistor on the pink wire?

There's a pink wire on the harness that normally goes to the ignition switch on the bike. You need to put a resistor on that wire and connect it to +12V.

As far as the resistor, I'm don't quite remember what it had to be but I think it was either 100, 1k, or 400 ohms.

I've heard others having to use diodes and what not but we've had it work with just a resistor. There's been threads about it on the forum. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Hmm, well that's the one thing I didn't do, and the reason for it, 'cause I haven't really found a straight answer that makes sense.

A zener diode with 3.7V rating will regulate the line to 3.7V.

The resistors, I have no clude ... I did read, on a non-FSAE site that a 2.2K resistor is used, however I wasn't sure if that was with the zener, or after the zener or ...you get the point.

But yes, that's what I figured, some sort of anti-theft device, kinda fun to bypass actually hehe. I'll try out the resistor on the pink wire when I see what the hell it actually does heheh, too many suggestions. For now I think I'm gonna keep this setup and just use the micro to make it one button slick start, essentially do what the micro in the bike would do, we'll see. For now, we know our engine works and that's a relief !

Spike
11-29-2004, 05:19 PM
The ECU needs to see 9 volts on the pink wire.

EgyptianMagician
11-29-2004, 05:36 PM
hmm, I can try again, although I'm pretty sure I tried it with a 9V battery ...

So if the pink wire needs to be a at 9V, why in tarnations (like that word?) were people buzzing about a 3.7V zener diode ?

I'll give it a whirl, however, if the ECM wasn't happy I don't understand why it would send out the ignition pulses, unless it's not a very sophisticated ignition system ?

anyhoo, thanks

DoItDoug
06-11-2005, 05:47 PM
I've searched and searched for a final answer on this topic, and haven't been able to find anything. Anyway, please let me know what you used to bypass the key switch and what voltage needs to be seen by the ECU.
Appreciate the help,

Gabriel Descamps
06-11-2005, 10:32 PM
It took our team a while before we were able to figure out what was happening. First of all, place a 1kohm resistance in parallel with a 3.9V Zener diode, then apply 12V to this simple circuit (GND goes to the resistance, "+" goes to the zener´s anode), then connect the Pink Wire (damn, I hated that wire...) to the zener´s cathode. Also, as you may know, the Honda ECM won´t start unless you bypass three things:
1. Bank Angle Sensor: R/W to GND.
2. Clutch Switch: G/W to GND.
3. Side Stand Switch: G/R to GND.
Well, it´s easier to just cut the G/R, G/W and R/W wires and plug them directly into the GND. It´ll save you some trouble. I have a few diagrams that could explain this better. We switched to PE this year (what a relief!), so we won´t need to deal with this Honda harness anymore. Also, take out all the extra wiring you won´t need (lights, dimmers, etc.). That´s pretty much it, let us know if you need anything.

Gabriel Descamps
Equipo F-SAE USB
Universidad Simón BolÃ*var

gabriel.fsaeusb@gmail.com

FreeRev
02-02-2006, 12:13 AM
All this talk of pink wires and stuff any body tried it on a HISS immobilizer bike engine?
Ie non US cbr600f4i?

If any one has had any luck with this can you please email me asap?
Thanks

Fritze
02-02-2006, 09:56 AM
We have a 01 Gixxer 600 and had a similar problem where the engine would turn over and spark but no fuel. In short, the problem was a failed turn signal fuse. The turn signal was linked to the side stand relay which cut the fuel. I do not know your system but just something to consider.

Gt40
12-01-2006, 08:24 AM
ok i am a little confused here... so the computer needs to "see" 9Vs or 3.9Vs???
+12v
|
|
1k ohm
|
|
-->pink wire=3.9V
|
|
3.9V zener diode
|
|
ground(-)
but that will only give the computer ~3.9V at any given time...
so i should be looking to make this circuit:
+12v
|
|
1k ohm
|
|
-->pink wire=9.1V
|
|
9.1V zener diode
|
|
ground(-)
to get the 9 volts to the computer???????

Gt40
12-05-2006, 08:48 PM
FOR FUTURE REFERENCE THE F4I NEEDS TO SEE ONLY 9 VOLTS nothing about a 3.9 Zener.......but maybe a 9volt one........ONCE AGAIN 9 volts

Dave14
02-20-2013, 06:54 PM
A Zener Diode reduces current. Example: A bike starting with a current of 12.9 volts....


Point A = 12.9 Volts------ 3.9 Zener Diode ------ Point B = 9 Volts

Whatever the value of the zener diode (such as 3.9 volts) that's how many volts it will REDUCE whatever the voltage you started with.

Just subtract the value of the zener diode from the amount of current you start with to get your end result

Dave14
02-20-2013, 07:01 PM
You would need a zener diode of about 3- 4 volts. NOTHING MORE OR LESS!! I ran a wire off my positive battery terminal (reading of 12.5 volts here)down to the only zener diode I could find at radio shack (which was a 5.1 volt zener diode) I took another measurement here and came up with 7.4 volts (which makes sense)and hooked the pink wire to it, but it would not power up my ecu!!!! (No Fuel pump or spark) I hooked up a 9 volt battery (pink to (+) and (-) to a ground on the frame and it did power up the ecu and fuel pump SO IT DOES NEED ALMOST EXACTLY 9 VOLTS!!! I still have no spark and cannot figure out why