Crank & Cam position

[vern]

We are running the DTA P8Pro ECU on our F4i and are just getting all the inputs sorted. For the crank input the wiring diagram (http://www.dtafast.co.uk/software.htm) says the ECU requires a magnetic sensor for the crank wheel and a Hall effect for the cam.
The F4i has a magnetic sensor (I guess - it only has 2 wires from it) on the cam and I think a Hall on the crank (3 wires). What a pain - has anyone else had this problem? I guess there isnt anything you can do about it other than change the sensors as their outputs will be completely different.
Changing the cam sensor shouldnt be too much of a problem as a Hall sensor looks like it will slip in with a bit of fiddling but anyone changed the crank one? I want to know how big a job it is before I pull the engine off the dyno (still running the original ECU & powercommander), drain the oil and pull the side off.
I have also been assured that we only have to chop 2 teeth off the cam leaving one and 3 off the crank - this is fine right?
Any help would be appreciated - electrics are not our forte and no sparkys are willing to get involved, I wont have much hair left soon.
Thanks in advance,
Joe Vernon

[vern]

We are running the DTA P8Pro ECU on our F4i and are just getting all the inputs sorted. For the crank input the wiring diagram (http://www.dtafast.co.uk/software.htm) says the ECU requires a magnetic sensor for the crank wheel and a Hall effect for the cam.
The F4i has a magnetic sensor (I guess - it only has 2 wires from it) on the cam and I think a Hall on the crank (3 wires). What a pain - has anyone else had this problem? I guess there isnt anything you can do about it other than change the sensors as their outputs will be completely different.
Changing the cam sensor shouldnt be too much of a problem as a Hall sensor looks like it will slip in with a bit of fiddling but anyone changed the crank one? I want to know how big a job it is before I pull the engine off the dyno (still running the original ECU & powercommander), drain the oil and pull the side off.
I have also been assured that we only have to chop 2 teeth off the cam leaving one and 3 off the crank - this is fine right?
Any help would be appreciated - electrics are not our forte and no sparkys are willing to get involved, I wont have much hair left soon.
Thanks in advance,
Joe Vernon

[DJHache]

Vern,

We use the same ECU/engine combo. The crank sensor has only two wires on every F4i we've had. It's a magnetic sensor that can be sent directly to the DTA. You can also use the stock motorcycle cam sensor but you might have problems on startup.

Give us your e-mail address if you want to change your DTA from a hall to a magnetic cam sensor.

As for the sensor wheels, it's right. You can grind off 1, 2 or 3 teeth on the crank.

[vern]

Sent you a message via the board with email address. Just checked my wiring diagram and noticed that the crank sensor is indeed only a magnetic - what a fool, but thanks for the advice.
Joe

[Federico]

DTA told us to eliminate 3 teeth. Why?

What do they stand for?

Now we have 1 tooth missing for the TDC.

Thanks a lot guys.