Brian Barnhill
08-12-2010, 10:38 AM
Hey guys,
I am just trying to judge interest and hear from anyone that might be interested in buying a past FSAE car (Full car, in running condition + spares) I am just looking to make the jump from solo to club racing and need the funds to make it happen. This is a full package, running car + spares and support. It would be perfect for a new school who wants an older car to do some training/testing on or for someone looking for a FSAE car to run solo or possibly convert.
Details - Car was built by my school while I was a graduate student (and team captain.) After I graduated, the school needed to make room in the shop, so I purchased the car from the school, and proceeded to makes some repairs and changes. The car weighs approx 480-500lbs wet, with the body on. Weighed in at 480 at competition, has a new body that lost some weight, redesigned lighter parts in some areas, but added bracing and mounts in a few areas.
The car is legal per the 2007-2008 rules and competed at FSAE Michigan (A poor tune and leaky brake system unfortunatly kept us from passing brake test as we could never get on of the fronts to lock - new lines, fitting and bleeding once I got the car fixed it perfectly. Will lock all 4 tires now no problem) The car is currently running as an A-mod, with the restrictor removed, but I still have the restricted intake as well.
Chassis:
4130 Steel, TIG welded and stress relieved (Fixtured and heated/cooled in a heat treatment facility)
7075 Aluminum rear subframe
Engine as partially stressed member
Suspension/Brakes:
4130 Steel heat treated double A-arm
Monoshock front and rear (rocker activated, Pull rod front, push rod rear)
Fox Vanilla RC Shocks (2 way adjustable) for ride
Rocker actuated (in slide) roll springs with Daytona Dampers for roll damping (yes, monoshock WITH roll damping)
7075 Aluminum CNC Uprights
Custom 6061 Aluminum Front Hubs
Modified 7075 Aluminum rear hubs from yamaha raptor (modified to allow bolting of the adaptor for the rotors)
Polaris Outlaw 450 rotors and Calipers
Willwood dual master cylinder brake setup (0.75 front, 0.625 rear)
Stilleto Steering rack
Engine:
Honda CBR 600F4i (mostly stock - PAIR Valve removal and rerouting of coolant lines)
Dual custom Griffen radiators with electric fans
4-2-1 Headers w/ carbon fiber Yoshimura TRS muffler
Stock ITB/fuel injection (Custom Aluminum fuel tank with foam baffling housing stock F4i fuel pump)
Stock ECU with Powercommander IIIr (allows ignition and fuel changes)
Hydraulic clutch with Wilwood pedal, MC and Slave
Drivetrain:
Quaife ATB Differential (Taylor Race Quaife)
Taylor Race Tripod stubs inboard, Taylor race Tulip bolt up outboard
Unequal length/Diameter 4130 Steel half shafts (heat treated)
520 Chain (Custom 48 Tooth rear sprocket, 11 or 14 tooth front sprocket - engine currently has 14 tooth installed)
Regina ORS6 520 Chain
Misc:
Wilwood clutch/brake, billet Accelerator pedals (cable throttle linkage)
Momo MOD 27 270mm Steering Wheel w/ sweet racing quick release
Carbon fiber firewall/fireshield (aluminized heat barrier on back around all exhaust/fuel areas)
Texalium Aramid Body work - front body, side pods)
Carbon fiber dash with cockpit kill switch, fan switch, start button, DAQ record button (not installed) and one unassigned rocker switch
F4i OEM dash
SCCA legal master kill switch, all kill switches are properly labeled.
Failry new Battery (still holds a charge great - always on a tender when not being driven)
New (Installed in Feb) G-Force 5 point harness
Custom foam seat insert
Right hand shifter - push/pull cable type
APR GTC-200 Wing (Too small for significant Auto-X advantage, but the car was originally designed for wings. This was put on to motivate me to actually build the wing, just never got around to it. The same mount can be used for a "real" wing)
Wheels/Tires
Keizer spun aluminum 13" wheels with Hoosier 20x7-13 Slicks (About 5 SHORT AutoX runs on them - ~35sec runs
Keizer Cast center 13" wheels with NEW Hoosier 20x6.5-13 Wets
One Set of Spare NEW 20x7-13 Hoosier Slicks (sticker still one)
Other spares included:
Ride Springs - 8 spare springs ranging from 350 lbs/in - 800lbs/in
Roll Springs - 6 sets of roll springs, varying rates (can't remember all off the top of my head... car is currently set up for about 1.2 deg/g)
1 Fox Vanilla RC Shock (2 way adjustable)
1 Fox RX Shock (one way adjustable)
1 520 Driven Sprocket (11 tooth - 14 tooth installed on the engine) Also have the OEM 16 Tooth sprockets
1 Extra fuel rail, regulator and injectors
1 spare set of OEM coils
1 Full perfect top end (heads, cams, valves, etc - maybe 8 hrs run time?
1 parts engine - need a new top half of the engine casing (about $60-$100 on ebay) and one new piston + rings, new 6th gear (or just remove it) gaskets, etc. Perfect to rebuild as a spare or build up for a modified engine. Rods, bearings, crank, etc are all still good.
2 Spare Shift Cables
1 Full clutch assembly (basket, disks, etc)
1 Spare 0.75" Wilwood Master Cylinder
Spare Wheels/Tires mentioned before
2 Spare Calipers
1 Shift FX Electric Shifter (just needs new ATX plugs/harness made and wired in. Actuator still works great, again, just never got around to installing it)
6 spare Timken Tapered Roller Wheel Bearings
20mm Restrictor and intake (velocity stack runners, uses stock fuel injection) w/ 2 throttle bodies - one 40mm butterfly and one 40mm barrell type. It may require a little TLC, but is complete and works.
I have a full undertray for the car - but it needs some TLC + fiberglass work before it can go back on the car. It was abused while it was in storage before I bought the car
+ Much more I am sure I am forgetting at the moment.
The good for the car:
Brand new body, hasn't even seen an actual race yet, just some shows and light driving in a parking lot
Brand new harness
Brakes and Clutch hydraulics are almost new - 3 AutoX events
New wheel bearings all around
Battery replaced at the beginning of the season
Car runs! Get in, drive - and still have parts for replacmenet/modifying I've already done all the modifications to the OEM harness to work for the car.
The "bad"
-The cockpit is tight, I am short (~66inches, or about 167.5cm and 135-140lbs) I fit just fine, but the cockpit was setup for me. The car would not fully pass the template tests. Moving the pedals and steering wheel mount would be the quick fix to this, and fairly simply. the more involved fix (but would make the car VERY roomy and fully template compatable) would be to modify the top half of the front hoop, I can provide details for this if any one is interested) With some patience, a tube bender and TIG welder this can be accomplished with a little bit of skill as well. We have fit drivers as tall as 5'10"-6' with some carfull wiggling and adjustment though.
-The paint on the chassis is chipped in a few areas (mainly from taking the front body on/off) but this is only cosmetic.
-The left radiator has been repaired. It had a crack in the lower tank from a rock that was hit while moving the car without sidepods (pushing/picking up, set down on the rock) The cooling system works great and there are no leaks in the radiator or cooling system as a whole though. Just visible repairs on the radiator.
I also have a 8x6x6 trailer (registered in CT) that I could throw in if anyone is interested. It has a drop down ramp, tire rack, some storage space and will fit the car (as long as the nose cone/front body is removed.) I can also help transport the car to your location if you'd like. We can negotiate transportation.
I am not even sure what to ask for in terms of pricing, but I will consider any resonable offers. Additionally, I will provide all the technical details/papers I have on the car and provide as much support as I can to the purchaser. As my family runs an online performance automotive retail site, I will also offer any parts we carry at cost to the buyer, this includes Innovate, Haltech, AEM, PLX, Aeromotive, etc. I can provide more details if requested.
For picture for now, see these albums:
h t t p ://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v376/briansb/HIN_Nopi_NJ-2010/
Additional picture posts pending approval. I will take detailed shots of the suspension and other technical areas as well. PM me if interested.
I am just trying to judge interest and hear from anyone that might be interested in buying a past FSAE car (Full car, in running condition + spares) I am just looking to make the jump from solo to club racing and need the funds to make it happen. This is a full package, running car + spares and support. It would be perfect for a new school who wants an older car to do some training/testing on or for someone looking for a FSAE car to run solo or possibly convert.
Details - Car was built by my school while I was a graduate student (and team captain.) After I graduated, the school needed to make room in the shop, so I purchased the car from the school, and proceeded to makes some repairs and changes. The car weighs approx 480-500lbs wet, with the body on. Weighed in at 480 at competition, has a new body that lost some weight, redesigned lighter parts in some areas, but added bracing and mounts in a few areas.
The car is legal per the 2007-2008 rules and competed at FSAE Michigan (A poor tune and leaky brake system unfortunatly kept us from passing brake test as we could never get on of the fronts to lock - new lines, fitting and bleeding once I got the car fixed it perfectly. Will lock all 4 tires now no problem) The car is currently running as an A-mod, with the restrictor removed, but I still have the restricted intake as well.
Chassis:
4130 Steel, TIG welded and stress relieved (Fixtured and heated/cooled in a heat treatment facility)
7075 Aluminum rear subframe
Engine as partially stressed member
Suspension/Brakes:
4130 Steel heat treated double A-arm
Monoshock front and rear (rocker activated, Pull rod front, push rod rear)
Fox Vanilla RC Shocks (2 way adjustable) for ride
Rocker actuated (in slide) roll springs with Daytona Dampers for roll damping (yes, monoshock WITH roll damping)
7075 Aluminum CNC Uprights
Custom 6061 Aluminum Front Hubs
Modified 7075 Aluminum rear hubs from yamaha raptor (modified to allow bolting of the adaptor for the rotors)
Polaris Outlaw 450 rotors and Calipers
Willwood dual master cylinder brake setup (0.75 front, 0.625 rear)
Stilleto Steering rack
Engine:
Honda CBR 600F4i (mostly stock - PAIR Valve removal and rerouting of coolant lines)
Dual custom Griffen radiators with electric fans
4-2-1 Headers w/ carbon fiber Yoshimura TRS muffler
Stock ITB/fuel injection (Custom Aluminum fuel tank with foam baffling housing stock F4i fuel pump)
Stock ECU with Powercommander IIIr (allows ignition and fuel changes)
Hydraulic clutch with Wilwood pedal, MC and Slave
Drivetrain:
Quaife ATB Differential (Taylor Race Quaife)
Taylor Race Tripod stubs inboard, Taylor race Tulip bolt up outboard
Unequal length/Diameter 4130 Steel half shafts (heat treated)
520 Chain (Custom 48 Tooth rear sprocket, 11 or 14 tooth front sprocket - engine currently has 14 tooth installed)
Regina ORS6 520 Chain
Misc:
Wilwood clutch/brake, billet Accelerator pedals (cable throttle linkage)
Momo MOD 27 270mm Steering Wheel w/ sweet racing quick release
Carbon fiber firewall/fireshield (aluminized heat barrier on back around all exhaust/fuel areas)
Texalium Aramid Body work - front body, side pods)
Carbon fiber dash with cockpit kill switch, fan switch, start button, DAQ record button (not installed) and one unassigned rocker switch
F4i OEM dash
SCCA legal master kill switch, all kill switches are properly labeled.
Failry new Battery (still holds a charge great - always on a tender when not being driven)
New (Installed in Feb) G-Force 5 point harness
Custom foam seat insert
Right hand shifter - push/pull cable type
APR GTC-200 Wing (Too small for significant Auto-X advantage, but the car was originally designed for wings. This was put on to motivate me to actually build the wing, just never got around to it. The same mount can be used for a "real" wing)
Wheels/Tires
Keizer spun aluminum 13" wheels with Hoosier 20x7-13 Slicks (About 5 SHORT AutoX runs on them - ~35sec runs
Keizer Cast center 13" wheels with NEW Hoosier 20x6.5-13 Wets
One Set of Spare NEW 20x7-13 Hoosier Slicks (sticker still one)
Other spares included:
Ride Springs - 8 spare springs ranging from 350 lbs/in - 800lbs/in
Roll Springs - 6 sets of roll springs, varying rates (can't remember all off the top of my head... car is currently set up for about 1.2 deg/g)
1 Fox Vanilla RC Shock (2 way adjustable)
1 Fox RX Shock (one way adjustable)
1 520 Driven Sprocket (11 tooth - 14 tooth installed on the engine) Also have the OEM 16 Tooth sprockets
1 Extra fuel rail, regulator and injectors
1 spare set of OEM coils
1 Full perfect top end (heads, cams, valves, etc - maybe 8 hrs run time?
1 parts engine - need a new top half of the engine casing (about $60-$100 on ebay) and one new piston + rings, new 6th gear (or just remove it) gaskets, etc. Perfect to rebuild as a spare or build up for a modified engine. Rods, bearings, crank, etc are all still good.
2 Spare Shift Cables
1 Full clutch assembly (basket, disks, etc)
1 Spare 0.75" Wilwood Master Cylinder
Spare Wheels/Tires mentioned before
2 Spare Calipers
1 Shift FX Electric Shifter (just needs new ATX plugs/harness made and wired in. Actuator still works great, again, just never got around to installing it)
6 spare Timken Tapered Roller Wheel Bearings
20mm Restrictor and intake (velocity stack runners, uses stock fuel injection) w/ 2 throttle bodies - one 40mm butterfly and one 40mm barrell type. It may require a little TLC, but is complete and works.
I have a full undertray for the car - but it needs some TLC + fiberglass work before it can go back on the car. It was abused while it was in storage before I bought the car
+ Much more I am sure I am forgetting at the moment.
The good for the car:
Brand new body, hasn't even seen an actual race yet, just some shows and light driving in a parking lot
Brand new harness
Brakes and Clutch hydraulics are almost new - 3 AutoX events
New wheel bearings all around
Battery replaced at the beginning of the season
Car runs! Get in, drive - and still have parts for replacmenet/modifying I've already done all the modifications to the OEM harness to work for the car.
The "bad"
-The cockpit is tight, I am short (~66inches, or about 167.5cm and 135-140lbs) I fit just fine, but the cockpit was setup for me. The car would not fully pass the template tests. Moving the pedals and steering wheel mount would be the quick fix to this, and fairly simply. the more involved fix (but would make the car VERY roomy and fully template compatable) would be to modify the top half of the front hoop, I can provide details for this if any one is interested) With some patience, a tube bender and TIG welder this can be accomplished with a little bit of skill as well. We have fit drivers as tall as 5'10"-6' with some carfull wiggling and adjustment though.
-The paint on the chassis is chipped in a few areas (mainly from taking the front body on/off) but this is only cosmetic.
-The left radiator has been repaired. It had a crack in the lower tank from a rock that was hit while moving the car without sidepods (pushing/picking up, set down on the rock) The cooling system works great and there are no leaks in the radiator or cooling system as a whole though. Just visible repairs on the radiator.
I also have a 8x6x6 trailer (registered in CT) that I could throw in if anyone is interested. It has a drop down ramp, tire rack, some storage space and will fit the car (as long as the nose cone/front body is removed.) I can also help transport the car to your location if you'd like. We can negotiate transportation.
I am not even sure what to ask for in terms of pricing, but I will consider any resonable offers. Additionally, I will provide all the technical details/papers I have on the car and provide as much support as I can to the purchaser. As my family runs an online performance automotive retail site, I will also offer any parts we carry at cost to the buyer, this includes Innovate, Haltech, AEM, PLX, Aeromotive, etc. I can provide more details if requested.
For picture for now, see these albums:
h t t p ://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v376/briansb/HIN_Nopi_NJ-2010/
Additional picture posts pending approval. I will take detailed shots of the suspension and other technical areas as well. PM me if interested.