One way starter clutch problem

[Brodyj]

We have a Kawasaki Zx6r that keeps destroying the starter clutch. The engine starts making a clacking noise when we are trying to start it and when we take the starter clutch off it is totally destroyed and it won't turn the engine over. I called Kawasaki about this and they said that they don't have any problems. I can understand if the car goes backwards than this could be a problem, but it is sitting on the dyno. I think that when you lift off the starter button that the engine turns backwards when it stalls. I know this because I can hear the starter spinning. Could this be the problem? If this is the problem, then is the timing to advanced? What should the timing advance be when starting?

[Chris Boyden]

Do you have the correct battery polarity on our starter motor?

Somebody hooked up the battery backwards to our R6 starter motor that caused one way clutch assembly to back off of the spindle.

[Jason Davis]

I don't know what kind of fuel management sys yall are using, but I have seen a way out of time engine do the same thing. If the plug fires at the wrong time it will kick the engine backwards, thus trashing your clutch. ANyway good luck.

[Chris Bova]

sounds like a timing issue. try disabling spark (remove plug caps/coils and see if it still sounds the same mechanically. if it sounds better back your timing way off and try that. also make sure the starter is aligned properly and bolts are tight. also check and make sure your cam timing is right if the engine has been apart. what are you running for base absolute (in reference to the crank not the trigger wheel for the spark control). Does the engine ever start?

Chris

[Brodyj]

Chris what is this base absolute thing that you mention? For now, I am trying to run as stock ignition advance as I can. This is based on 2 reverence advance numbers in the shop manual. Yes it has started, but we have bigger problems. Now it is making a funny noise when it runs. I have taken it mostly apart and I still have not found the problem.

[Chris Bova]

ok, all i mean by absolute timing is a reference on the crank other than the trigger wheel to check timing. for us that meant a mark on the magneto and a viewing hole in the stator cover. take the valve cover off and set the engine to TDC for 1 and 4 using the references on the cam sprockets (assuming the cams are correctly timed). now with TDC mark the magneto throught hte hole. next you will need a timing light, if you are running COP's you will need to rig up a "high tension" lead out of and old automotive spark plug for inductive timing lights. stick one end into the coil and the other to the plug and ground the plug or install it. crank the engine over and see where you actual timing is in reference to the ECU timing.

now for the noises. too much advance will make a hell of a racket, it will give a wicked clatter and sound like a diesel. if you dont find anything mechanically amiss. put it back together and triple check your cam timing with the OEM trigger wheel on the crank for dead nuts TDC.

if the engine has been apart before check everything rod bolts, clutch hub, clutch spring retainers, oil pump chain.

I'm assuming you have the head off, inspect for piston/valve crashing due to mis-timed cams. that will also likly destroy starters and componets as well as bend valves and a whole host of nightmares.

Chris

[Brodyj]

I need to get a timeing light so I can check the timing. What do you guys run for advance for zero, and 1000 rpm. Do you retard the timing for starting?

Brody