Driver's seat

[Alexisonsmith]

Hey,

I was looking at designing the drivers seat and to save weight I was looking into desining my own instead of buying one and putting one in there! Does anyone know of a foam which would be a suitable material to model a seat in...this would of course save weight if not a little uncomfortable!

Alexisonsmith

[Alexisonsmith]

Hey,

I was looking at designing the drivers seat and to save weight I was looking into desining my own instead of buying one and putting one in there! Does anyone know of a foam which would be a suitable material to model a seat in...this would of course save weight if not a little uncomfortable!

Alexisonsmith

[Hector]

Google "Bald Spot Sports". I can't post the link because it takes too long to be approved. It's a kit we've had good success with. While you can make individual seats for your drivers, it's usually ok to simply use the biggest driver as the model, and everyone else will be relatively comfortable. If it comes out less-than-desirable, it's always possible to sand off areas that you don't want. Wrap the thing up in tape and call it a day.

[Alexisonsmith]

Did you get any form of sponsorship with them? we are on a bit of a budget

[Old Greg]

Plain old styrofoam works well enough.

In years past, USF's Baja team made seats from styrofoam covered with a layer or two of fiberglass. If memory serves they weigh around 3 or 4 lbs, and they've survived 3 Baja competitions and several years of tomfoolery so they're fairly durable.

Comfort depends entirely on you; it's all in the shape (mostly).

[Mikey Antonakakis]

Last year our seat was terrible (we didn't really have one). This year, we got some trash bags and 2-part expanding foam, sat on the bags, poured in some foam, and bam, custom seat. The foam isn't cheap, and it won't be as nice as the Bald Spot Sports seats (we had on a couple years ago), but the process is pretty quick and fun (if you've pulled an all-nighter and want a nap on a nice warm custom-molded seat, it's awesome). Do it in small sections, it's a lot easier than trying to do it all in one pour. Then just cut down any unwanted parts and tape it up and you have a very light, very comfy seat insert.

[MegaDeath]

I agree with Hector.

We also use the kit from Bald Spot Sports. It's relatively easy to make, and we have had great success making very comfortable seats with it in the past.

[D Collins Jr]

I agree with Mikey. Trash bags and foam (part number 3385 at pegasusautoracing DOT com) works well. Just don't get it on your shirt!

[Alexisonsmith]

These are all great ideas however these are all american sites, I am in the UK and so I really need some companies over here

[woodsy96]

We use two part Polyeurathane like Mikey, and have a few inserts for different drivers.

After we've shaped it we lay some glass over the front for longevity, then add a layer of adhesive felt to make it look bling.

[Richard Pare]

Just go to your local home builder's supply store and buy a sheet of 2" thick polystyrene foam wall insulation. If they have it, the white expanded bead stuff ('styrofoam") is the best, but the blue or pink foam boards type will work also.

You will also want a spray contact adhesive. Over here we use 3M 777 to glue things together. Don't try to use regular contact cement from a can - it will just melt right through the foam!

Cut and shape and glue together your seat as necessary. Use everything from hot knives to hacksaw blades, 3" air sanders, etc. It will make a hell of a mess of the shop, so be prepared with a good vaccume cleaner!

Once finished, brush on a layer of epoxy resin (NOT polyester resin, as it will also melt the foam)and glue down a cloth covering.

OR, lay on one layer of satin weave fiberglass (again with epoxy resin). One layer is enough. 2 layers will make it too rigid as a crash attenuation device (which a good seat is supposed to be). You CAN use 2 layers on the back side for structural integrity, but it really is not necessary - one layer is more than enough.

Cheap, readily available, and easy to fix in-process screw-ups.

The 2-part foam is nothing more than flotation foam. While it works, it is to be avoided whenever possible as a seat foam in race cars since it has terrible attenuation characteristics.

[Lorenzo Pessa]

+1 to trash bag, foam and tape.

So every driver has his own seat.

We made them in an hot day and the drivers get cooked. For us outside the car it was funny.

[Jeong-neon Kim]

Just pour the plater down,and pull out your driver! :-)http://image.twipl.net/files/2010/04/29/23/photo/rsource/e3dc3f56-1067-47cf-8256-e510babb407e.jpg

[Old Greg]

Just a warning to anyone who thinks that the previous post is awesome (which it is). Please remember that the curing of plaster is an exothermic process. It's plenty capable of putting you in the hospital when made in that sort of quantity, so make sure that you know what you're doing.

[Jevon]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Jeong-neon Kim </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Nice pasties.

[Jeong-neon Kim]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Old Greg:
Just a warning to anyone who thinks that the previous post is awesome (which it is). Please remember that the curing of plaster is an exothermic process. It's plenty capable of putting you in the hospital when made in that sort of quantity, so make sure that you know what you're doing. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

It's absolutely right. You need to check the characteristics of plaster which you are going to use. The skin of your friend may be cooked unless you do it.

[C]

Hey guys,

Sorry if I seem to be hijacking the thread, but I've a question that I think is relevant to all of us:

How would you attach the foam seat to the car?

From what I've read, the foam seat, once set, is going to be fairly rigid, but will it be rigid enough for bolts or similar fasteners to be used?

I don't think it's sufficient if we just simply place the seat in the car and it's held in place by a combination of the driver's weight and the harness strapping the driver in. And obviously, the seat needs to be removable to allow access to the fuel tank etc, so we can't glue it in.

We're thinking of using the BaldSpotSports Creafoam kit, if that makes any difference. And we're using a spaceframe chassis.

Thanks,
C

[Mike Macie]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by C:

How would you attach the foam seat to the car?

From what I've read, the foam seat, once set, is going to be fairly rigid, but will it be rigid enough for bolts or similar fasteners to be used?

I don't think it's sufficient if we just simply place the seat in the car and it's held in place by a combination of the driver's weight and the harness strapping the driver in. And obviously, the seat needs to be removable to allow access to the fuel tank etc, so we can't glue it in.

</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

The seat usually fits in pretty snug if it's one piece but you can use Velcro if you have any parts or inserts

[Richard Pare]

Foam seat do not get "attached" to the chassis. Holding it in place just via a snug fit to the interior panels is way more than adequate, even in F1, Indy cars, and WSC. Once the driver is strapped in, the seat ain't gonna go anywhere.

[Mehul Botadra]

We might have a little issues with snug fit along in interior panels due to the spaceframe. Besides our Electronic modules sit in that place. If using a solid seat,

http://thumb8.webshots.net/t/1...4791088oIKsbP_th.jpg (http://thumb8.webshots.net/t/16/16/6/4/52/2069604520074791088oIKsbP_th.jpg)

Whats the best place to bolt using 3 points? We used a complete glass fibre seat last time and it started flexing at places as the G's came in! Thought of using another layer but that might just end up making the whole structure rigid!