Quaife bolts.

[RollingCamel]

I was searching the Quaife diff bolts however i couldn't find it in the market. I've read about checking B7 Honda Civic bolts and i'll send one of my teammates to check it. Or else i will machine it.

[The_Man]

The Quaife differential bolts (if they are the same one you are looking for the funny M11 left hand fine thread or something like that) I found with great difficulty at a Honda service centre in Michigan while I was there. So suggest you look at the nearby Honda they should get it for you if the Honda Civic is sold in Egypt.

The ones that where suitable for our team where the one for the Honda Civic 2008 2-door, hatchback. They got them for me by special order to Honda and took about 9 days to get them(I had to go to the supplier to pick it up)

Because the bolts where not available we had done some initial testing using M10 bolts(with nut) with appropriate washers and a small piece of rubber in the holes. This worked fine for the little while we had it on. I do not recommend using this as a solution, though. We switched to the standard bolts as soon as we had them.

[Mikey Antonakakis]

I think we had to do a similar thing for ours.

[RollingCamel]

We have the QDF7ZR, which has 6 27/64 inch through holes.

[RollingCamel]

I was contacting west garage and they are using M10. Not sure it was custom bolts but we are making ours just in case.

[Demon Of Speed]

They are M10 x 1 (fine) left hand threads.

We got our diff. from Taylor racing, and they had the bolts for sale as well (after looking all over for them other places).

[Auerbach]

When I built my Roadster with a Quaife, Taylor Race didn't have any of the bolts so I used some Grade 8 5/16" with nuts just to get the car together and moving. Of course I never replaced them with the proper bolts, but its still holding together without a hint of problems and I bang on that car pretty hard. It's got an unrestricted GSXR600 and about twice the weight of a standard FSAE car.

[RollingCamel]

I thought that the force transmitted was through the bolt not by clamping force.

[scotty young Taylor Race]

Here is the part number and discription of the bolts from Honda.

90015-634-010 BOLT FLANGE 10MM x 1.00; 17.7mm UNDERHEAD LENGTH

Scotty
Taylor Race Engineering

[Brian Barnhill]

Originally posted by RollingCamel:
I thought that the force transmitted was through the bolt not by clamping force.

Just the opposite - loading through the bolt would load it in shear, which is most of the time we want to avoid. It is the calmping force provided by the bolt between the two surface that should take most of the force. If it is loaded in shear make sure you are using the proper fastener.

For what it's worth when we ran a Quaife one of our guys actually machined out the holes to a proper SAE bolt fitment because he didn't want to order the correct bolts.... This differential is still in my car, with the same sprocket and bolts and I have never had a problem with it. I have broken a chain and a tripod joint before the sprocket ever came loose. I am running on an Unrestricted F4i in a car running about 700lbs with fluids, drive and ballast. I beat on it too.

That said, I would just order the proper bolts and drill them for safety wire if you have the time to get them.

[Auerbach]

That reminds me, I tried to drill out the threads so I could use a 3/8" bolt but my HSS bits didn't even scratch the metal. I have no idea what that housing is made of, but it is definately not butter.

Also, I don't advocate this method. Always use the appropriate bolts. (end disclaimer)

[Brian Barnhill]

Originally posted by Auerbach:
That reminds me, I tried to drill out the threads so I could use a 3/8" bolt but my HSS bits didn't even scratch the metal. I have no idea what that housing is made of, but it is definately not butter.

Also, I don't advocate this method. Always use the appropriate bolts. (end disclaimer)

+1 to the disclaimer - If I had known what he was doing, I would have put a stop to it and just ordered the correct bolts. I have NO IDEA what bit he used, but I know the case is very hard...

What Auerbach said - just buy the correct bolts. Scotty from Taylor-Race provided the link so you have no excuses.

[RollingCamel]

I sense something strange. Is there different models of the diff?

If the torque is transfered using clamping force and M10 bolts are smaller than the through hole, what makes the this bolt special than an M10 i could buy localy?

[Auerbach]

At least for my diff, the bolt is left hand fine thread, which is hard to find in metric. Also, a stronger bolt can be torqued more, thus applying more clamp load.

Edit- I see from your post above you have thru holes in your diff so the thread part is not very helpful, but the more torque/more clamp load argument still holds (pun intended).

[scotty young Taylor Race]

Alexandria,

There are two versions of the grease diff from Quaife,
The most common will be the Honda version.
The other one will be a Ford Escort.

I don't know off hand what that thread is.

But on the new TRE Quaife diff.....there is no need to hunt down silly left hand metric bolts.Ours has pressed in studs on the splined sprocket flange.
Did I mention with the new TRE diff , there is no more inside wheel spin...Ask Mike Cook what he thinks..

OK...that was my Friday sales pitch....
Thank you,,,,i'll be here all week


scotty
taylor race engineering

[RollingCamel]

Thanks Scotty we'll let next year teams put it into consideration.