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HankH
02-08-2013, 12:32 PM
Hey everybody. First off, I have checked everywhere on the interwebs for this problem and can't seem to find a solution. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated at this point.

The setup:
We have an engine from a 2008 cbr600RR installed on our Formula SAE racecar. Since the rules require a 20 mm restrictor on the intake, we have no place for the secondary injectors. To make up for this, we currently have a PowerCommander V installed. We also have an aftermarket fuel pump that has worked on this engine in the past. In addition, any non-engine related sensors/switches that came on the bike are missing (kill sw, Ign sw, BAS, kickstand, etc.). Our exhaust is also custom, though at the moment it is routed only through a 4-2-1 pipe and then directly to atmosphere, i.e. no muffler. One of the university's senior design teams is currently working on a custom performance exhaust system, but they need baseline noise data to design the muffler.

The problem:
The previous setup had an extremely modified wiring harness that bypassed all of kill switches and secondary injectors. This harness worked for a while, but due to the cannibilized state, were were recently unable to diagnose a connection issue. So we obtained a harness from a salvage yard and have installed it on the car. We have checked all kill switch locations and bypassed where necessary (I will list the locations below). The problem is that we are still unable to get the engine to run with the new (salvaged) harness. Over the course of several days, we diagnosed several problems with sensors and switches and have finally been able to get the engine to actually fire. But this only lasts a few seconds and the engine dies. We have determined that when it dies, the fuel pump also stops, which I understand is normal. The odd thing is that the fuel pump will not restart upon cranking and and there is no spark (checked by pulling a plug and placing on block). Even more odd, is that both of these issues are solved by cycling the ignition switch. Turning the ign off an on again re-primes the fuel pump and the engine will once again start for 1-2 seconds. Then dies again, no spark or fuel.

Tests/Countermeasures completed:
Obvious checks:
Engine is in Neutral
Battery is good
Spark plugs are clean, though old
Gas is fresh, 93 grade
Electrical connections that have been bypassed:
Ignition switch jumped
Bank Angle Sensor jumped
Kill Switch jumped
Kickstand Switch jumped
Clutch Sensor jumped
Four Secondary injector plugs jumped
Engine checks:
Compression is above 150 in all cylinders
All engine sensors are installed and plugged in
Oil level is good
Coolant is full
Fuel pressure is 70-80 psi
Other checks:
salvaged harness has been looked over and the only damage found is on the foot brake sensor plug wires. A few cm of bared wire but no breaks or shorts.

This is all I can think of right now, but I may think of something else later. My plan of attack today is to check to see if the Voltage Regulator is not regulating and is overpowering the system. Not sure if that would stop spark and fuel or not, but I am at a loss right now. I am also thinking of tracing each sensor wire to its ecu pin and testing continuity, though I was really trying to avoid this.

If anybody has any ideas, please post them. I am willing to try anything at this point.

Thanks

HankH
02-08-2013, 05:51 PM
Hey everybody,

I just wanted to post that we solved the problem, just in case somebody else had a similar issue.

After testing the system voltage today and that failing to be the issue, we attempted to retrofit a 2005 cluster to the harness to read the fail codes. Again, this failed to work. So instead of the cluster, we wired a 12v light to the FI wire coming from the ECU. This actually worked and by jumping the green and brown wires on the diagnostic connector, we were able to read the fail codes. This flashed codes indicating issues with the secondary injector circuits. We had originally thought this problem had been solved by simply jumping the injector wires, but evidently not. As a substitute for the straight copper wire jumper, we used 12 Ohm resistors as jumpers instead. We used 12 Ohm because the main injectors had 12 Ohms resistance. This worked perfectly. Engine now runs and we will be doing some tuning on it to make sure everything is perfect.

Even though there were no replies, I do appreciate everybody that looked at the thread. This was a tough one to find.