I ve had read through the other similar threads but they didn't quite match:

We ve just changed our intake, due to some design flaws with the previous one. the engine was badly mapped before we swapped the intake, but it would at least idle and rev up. With the new intake we are struggling to get the engine to start and its running badly, which I think I can just put down to the mapping.
However we are getting a steady stream of air out of the crank case ventilation on the oil air separator, during cranking and running and then for several seconds after stopping the engine. Id never really taken too much notice as to how much we were getting with the old header, but we've been driving around (badly mapped, mainly been running rich-sooty plugs, one plug was worse than others but we put it down to accidentally running with one 99 coil)with them and hadn't really noticed (we run with blanking plates on the cam cover breathers and a pipe from the oil air separator to a catch can). How much crank case ventilation do you typically get get with R6? Am I right to fear the worst with piston rings etc? Any ideas otherwise as to the cause?

I'm planning on compression testing the cylinders on Monday and try and get a look inside the cylinders and swap the old intake on to see if this is the culprit.

Cheers

Sounds like you could be having the same problem we had last year.

The reed valves on the 04 engine are pointless on anything but the road bike. They're only there for emissions. I'm not entirely sure how, but it's well documented on various R6 forums and Yamaha sell blanking plates on the Racing Parts website.

What is likely to have happened is that your mixture has been so rich that you have heavily diluted the oil. Have a check and you may well find it's almost as liquid as petrol and smells very strongly of it.

Have you veified your injector firing order? The R6 is not the often standard 1-3-4-2. It is infact the other 'standard' pattern of 1-2-4-3. It will run on the former setting, but you'll have fuel sitting on the back of the valves and hence, a horribly badly atomized mixture and hence it will be running very rich.

Symptoms of this will be:

a) Will not fire on the button. May require a very aggressive start up map.

b) A fuel map that look like the Himalayas.

c) Significant running on after killing the engine using the ECU (> a second). It *should* die the moment you tell the ECU to stop injecting.

d) Very low viscosity oil.

You may still be ok. If you can hear tapping sound coming from what sounds like that head though, it's likely to be on its way out. If not, you'll probably be fine. Check the oil you take out for big chunks of bearing. A fine mist of metal and you may be just about OK.

What ECU are you running? If it's a DTA download and try the FSAE Honda map from their website for the new ECUs if you have the older P8. These do load and if the settings are correct, it should fire and run on it, if slightly badly.

Hope that helps.

Any joy with this one Laurence?

Thank you for your reply. Sorry about the slow reply, its been a busy week.
We did a compression test which turned out fine, the oil was OK as well. Were running the DTA e48, so its wasted spark paired up to give us the correct firing order and simultaneous injection.
We eventually tracked the problem down to the injectors not sealing properly in the runners.
We had the car on a rolling road today and made a healthy 82 bhp and 50 Nm.
Our bodywork is nearly finished and were testing tomorrow so were looking good at the moment.

Great. Glad to hear it's all ok! Good power figures too. See you in a week

quote:

Originally posted by Laurence:
We had the car on a rolling road today and made a healthy 82 bhp and 50 Nm.

How do you get bhp? Do you have an engine dyno?

Just curious.

I'd assume that's what "rolling road" meant...

quote:

Originally posted by Wesley:
I'd assume that's what "rolling road" meant...

Haha, ok. That's a healthy engine then.

We also once had a problem with excessive crank case ventilation with an R6.. see photo.

quote:

Originally posted by rollcentre:
We also once had a problem with excessive crank case ventilation with an R6.. see photo.

Custom vented crankcase?

No. It's not custom. It's standard, but only if you find the 'special' settings on the engine.



Make sure you position the battery in an appropriate location to catch the parts that aren't required for efficient running of the engine....